The good news:
1. This morning Annika was her usual bubbly self. Cured!
2. Larry took five loads of laundry to the laundromat today. About half of it is dry now. Only about five loads to go ... mostly sheets and towels.
3. I found a small ice cube tray hidden under our stores in the freezer. So next time anyone bumps her head I'll be all set.
4. My correcting is all done.
5. Annika now knows what 8 X 6 is.
6. I had a GREAT sleep last night.
7. I had a GREAT shower this morning. Larry had thoroughly cleaned the shower after all our guests and it was sparkling. AND there is a door, unlike the bathtub at the hotel. AND I love the automatic temperature setting ... soooo nice.
8. Caroline's coat is drying faster than I expected it would. (It didn't really get clean, though.)
9. Larry just came in with five daffodils that he found in bloom in a corner of the garden ... wonderful! And the bulbs I planted along the garage in November are ready to burst. Kind of nice, since I planted them when it seemed my grandmother was first going to leave us. Now, a week after her death, "her" flowers are ready to bloom. A gift, for sure.

In other news ...
1. It cost us about 15 euros to do our laundry. Could have paid for a babysitter for a couple of hours for that ...
2. Someone is mowing the lawn today, at 4 p.m. on a SUNDAY! C'est scandaleux! I'm not sure which neighbor it is, but we decided not to call the cops.

This morning we went to the market in Port-en-Bessin, since Larry was unable to go to the market yesterday. Monsieur du Pommeau told me there is a "patron du marché" for each market in France, who tells people where to set up, etc. Sounds like a great retirement job for me ... I could be a "patronne du marché" in Toulon with Alexandra.

Off to do some prep work for tomorrow. It is rough, though comforting in a way, to get back into a routine after vacation. Wish me luck getting up tomorrow!

On Thursday Leah, Maddie, Annika and I arrived in Paris around eleven. Annika remembered exactly how to find the metro when we arrived at Saint Lazare; it was highly amusing to just let her lead the way. How many eight year olds do you know from Falmouth, Maine, who can do that?

We found the hotel easily, right on the Rue Madame, near the Luxembourg Gardens. A nice little hotel, with a bigger-than-I-had-expected room, a quaint lobby, and a charming "terrasse" and "cour" where I assume guests can have breakfast in the summer. The location was good, too, expecially for the girls, but I still prefer the Hôtel du Collège de France. This one was much noisier, with traffic and such, though the people were very nice and helpful.

We went out to get sandwiches and had a picnic in the Jardin du Luxembourg. It was a beautiful day; we were lucky. Then we rented boats for the girls, which both enjoyed thoroughly until Maddie, running, fell onto her pole and hurt herself. We dried her tears and took her to the "aire de jeux" in the Jardin, which she liked a lot. While they played Leah went back to the hotel to get warmer coats for she and Maddie, and had great difficilty opening the door - sound familiar, Lisa? After the girls played for a while we walked down the Boulevard Saint Michel, poking in shops, on our way to Berthillon, which Maddie claimed was the "best ice cream she had ever had". Success!

We ate our ice cream, as is our tradition, in the little park behind Notre Dame. It was amazing to me how many more flowers and flowering trees were in bloom than there were just one week ago - it was so pretty. Spring clearly has sprung here, as my allergies will attest.

We hurried over to Pont de l'Alma and caught the five o'clock Bateau Mouche with five minutes to spare. Annika wanted to go way up on top, which we did, but soon opted to go below deck as the drizzle was rather unpleasant. After we turned around I agreed to go out on deck with Annika; the rain had mostly stopped. Then, suddenly, there appeared an incredible rainbow, right behind the Eiffel Tower. It was like it had been put there just for us - quite incredible.

We walked over to the Eiffel Tower and had almost no line - such luck! We went all the way to the top, of course, and were lucky to have the sparkles go off while we were up there. When we got back to the bottom Leah bought us all hot chocolate (Maddie burned her tongue a little - Annika forgot to warn her - oops!) and we started walking toward the metro. Annika, again, remembered the way and played tour guide. As we were leaving the sparkles once again began and the girls were simply transfixed; it was incredible.

We hopped on the metro and began looking for a restaurant in the Quartier Latin. To my amusement, a pizzaria owner, trying to gain some customers, told us the two girls could share a pizza, no problem. I smiled, reminded of our little adventure with trying to have the girls split a pizza earlier in the year in Bayeux. We opted instead for a more French meal at a restaurant I hadn't recognized at first, but did when we entered (Annika knew immediately) - we had eaten there back in August, I think. Annika and Leah had escargots, I had some fish, Maddie had "the best chicken and rice I ever had". Success again! (Less success, unfortunately, with the water, which Maddie did not like.)

It was a full but really, really fun day. I was so glad to be in Paris with Leah, to share that with her. I think she had a really good time. How could she not, with Annika as a guide?

We got back to the hotel after eleven - exhausted. Annika especially was fading fast. The beds were most welcome. For the next part of this exciting adventure, read on.

Yesterday morning we had set the alarm so as to "bien profiter de Paris". We went down to breakfast around eight. Annika was complaining of a headache and being tired. Maddie, too, was dragging. "I don't mind letting them rest for a bit before going out," said the ever-cooperative and understanding Leah. So we went back up the the room and napped for a half hour or so. The next part of the plan was to go to the Musée d'Orsay. I was thrilled that Leah had chosen to go there; it is one of my favorite places in the world and I hadn't been in ages. As we got ready to leave, Annika said her headache was really bad, so I decided to give her some kid asprin. Leah and Maddie had already headed down to the lobby. About thirty seconds after she finished taking the medicine, Annika threw up.

I hastily cleaned up the mess (mostly in the bathroom), rinsed out Annika's scarf, and told her we could stay in the hotel. "No," she said. "I want to see the museum." "Okay," I told her. "But you tell me if you want to come back." So off we went. My excitement built as we arrived at Solférino, and I remembered well the view of the street as you exit the metro there. I was so psyched to be back at the Orsay.

We began walking the short distance to the museum when a small voice beside me said, "Mommy? I want to go back to the hotel." My heart sank, but of course I knew where my priorities were. So I gave Leah some money (she had almost run out of cash and we hadn't seen an ATM), my copy of "Paris par arrondissement", a phone card, and instructions on how to get back to the hotel and/or where to go shopping afterwards (which had been the plan for part two of the day). And off Annika and I went, back to the hotel where she fell asleep almost immediately. My hope was that she was just overtired, that the vomiting was just from the medicine, and that after a nap she would rally. Nope. I spent the whole day in the hotel, listening to the noises of children in what had to be a nearby "cours de récréation", doing some Sudoko and administering liquids to Annika whenever she stirred. (Well, except for a very slight detour on the way back to the hotel for a three-minute pony ride in the Luxembourg Gardens, which I had hoped would cheer Annika up.)

After a little while my cell phone rang. It was Madeleine, one of my students from WHS, who was in France with Earl and the French Exchange. Guess where she was? Bayeux! It was maddening not to be able to see the students and Earl, for them to be in Bayeux without me. I had given them several possible dates when I was available for them to visit Bayeux, but for some reason they couldn't change it ... very disappointing, especially as I was sitting stuck in a hotel room in Paris doing nothing. Grrrrr.

Later, Maddie and Leah came back and brought me a sandwich. I had had some clementines to eat and a leftover croissant from breakfast, but the sandwich was most welcome. Maddie was pretty tired after lunch, so I suggested she stay in the hotel with us so Leah could go shopping. She, too, slept most of the time and I sat there and read - actually quite a luxury since I seldom have time to read at home.

Leah returned from her adventure with a bunch of new clothes, for which she was very happy. I was slightly jealous, having wanted to go shopping myself (Larry does not like to go shopping so this was a golden opportunity ... hélas ...), but, c'est la vie. My place was with Annika, the poor thing.

For a little while Annika rallied (but not enough to go out) and we played a little Uno. Then Leah & Maddie went out to get dinner. I still had half a sandwich left so thought I would be fine. I read to Annika for a bit and then she went to sleep. Around eleven I turned out the lights. A few minutes later my guests returned from their dinner. Suddenly I realized I was starving. Plus I couldn't sleep because there was this annoying incessant beeping sound coming from somewhere outside. So I arose, got the cookies out of my backpack and Annika's book (I had finished mine) and went in the bathroom to eat and read, trying very very hard not to feel sorry for myself. I was missing Larry terribly and feeling very stir-crazy from having been cooped up in the room all day. I will have to say it was not the high point of my Fulbright year.

Three cookies later I tried to go back to bed with no luck. I was still starving so I put on my boots and walked downstairs to see if there was any non-sweet food in the vending machine in the lobby. Nope. So I resignedly went back upstairs and ate the piece of bread that was also leftover from breakfast (mostly stale, no butter or jam), again sitting in the bathroom. I finally got to sleep around 1:30, I think.

At 3:30 Annika awoke, complaining her belly hurt. "Do you feel like you have to throw up?" I asked. "No," she said. But then, two minutes later ... again. I put her back to bed and again cleaned the bathroom. Again, not the highlight of my Fulbright year. I found myself wishing we had just gone home as soon as Annika got sick, but I didn't want to abandon Leah, who was a little intimidated at the prospect of being in Paris alone. No matter - it was probably better this way in the long run.

This morning we got up, had breakfast (I paid an extra two euros for a yogurt - well worth it!), and went downstairs to check out. It was a little later than we planned, and there was a woman before us who took a very long time. So I told Leah we would not be able to walk her to the RER ... I did NOT want to miss our train to Bayeux. I hope she has made it home safely by now and is not too mad at me for the lack of help with the suitcases.

Annika seemed to be feeling much better; it was I who felt rather sick - just stress, I think - but I felt better once we got to the train station. I bought an apple and a yogurt and some chips (which Annika wanted). A woman asked me if I could spare "une petite pièce pour manger", but I was suspicious of her demeanor and so told her I would buy her an apple instead. When I finished my purchases and went to give her the apple, she had disappeared. Hungry, my foot - she probably wanted to buy drugs or something.

The train ride home was uneventful ... Annika was feeling better enough that she got a little bored, and we shared a sandwich and some more chips. It was nice to see her eating again. When we got home (I was sooooo glad to see Larry) the girls and I played "Jour de Paie" together. It was so nice just to be "en famille", to be able to make myself a cup of tea, and of course Larry's supper tonight was like heaven on earth ... my first hot meal in almost two days. It is good to be home, to have the house quiet (though it is strange not to have guests). Tomorrow I will need to do a lot of work but for now, it is good to relax, unpack, and unwind with Larry and the girls. It was wonderful to see family and friends, but I think all of us are ready to reestablish our routines again. Four is a good number.

The most difficult thing about being abroad, I think, apart from the obvious fact of missing friends and family, is the loss of control over one's environment. When I am at home, I know whom to call when there is a problem, I know which medicine works on my kids and how to find it, I know how things work and how to access information. When one is in a foreign country, all those things have to be relearned, sometimes with few resources, few people to whom to turn, and sometimes language barriers. Remember when I took the girls shopping for school supplies at the beginning of the year? It was such a challenge, so hard to figure out what was required and how to find it. It's almost, as Caroline noted when I expressed some of this to her, like being a kid again. If an appliance breaks at home, it is mine and I can take care of it as I choose. Here, I need to consult with my exchange partner, as a child would have to seek the assistance of a parent to get her bicycle repaired. One has to be patient and resourceful, which I usually am up to a point. But when things go wrong, of course, is when the impulse is to just want to go HOME, to be back in control again. Most of me does not want to go home yet, but there are moments.

Tonight, upon returning to Saint Vigor after going to Paris with Leah and Maddie (more on that shortly), I was delighted to find that someone that Catherine had contacted had come and fixed the washing machine. Having had guests for whom we did laundry, plus extra sheets to wash, vomiting girls (more on that shortly), etc., the dirties have really piled up. Then, to my dismay, on the third load, I noted that the interior drum was once again not rotating. When I removed Caroline's winter coat, it was soaked and covered with half-dissolved laundry powder. I took the sopping heap into the bathroom and proceeded to clean it off in the shower. However, as it is not dryable and the spin cycle doesn't work on the machine, I am not sure when my daughter will have the use of her coat again. AND it is her only winter coat. She will have to wear her raincoat next week and content herself with heavy sweaters ... I hope we don't get a cold spell!

After the frustration with the washing machine, Annika came to me in tears ... she had bumped her head on the staircase. In the U.S. I would have gotten her some ice to put on it. Here? No ice cubes. Anywhere. In France. I have never seen an ice cube tray here. At that moment, unable to help my daughter in the way I wanted to, I wanted to go home. Loss of control ... it's hard sometimes.

This morning we arose early and headed out for the market in Isigny-sur-Mer. It was a bit of a disappointment - no cheese, no fish, no wine, few veggies. I bought some fruit and then the girls went and played in the little park we had found last time. It was fun to see the town with some life in it, as we were there on a Sunday last time and everything was closed.

Next we headed to Utah Beach, following the winding Normandy roads. Maddie said she was feeling a little bit carsick, and, sure enough, a few minutes later we had to pull over. Fortunately, most of the mess was on Maddie's sweatshirt which she was able to remove. It could have been much worse! We proceeded on to Sainte Marie du Mont which had a nice church. Annika had brought a euro with her and decided to light a candle, but we accidentally put out the one candle that was burning and the box of matches was wet, so no candle ... zut, alors. I found myself hoping it wasn't an omen.

When we got to Utah Beach both Annika and I were in need of facilities. The outdoor ones were closed, so we went into the museum. "Où sont les toilettes?" I asked. "A l'intérieur du musée, après avoir payé la visite," said the woman. Since we didn't want to visit the museum and the cost of admission did not sound like what we wanted to pay for toilets, we crossed our legs till we could find another. Caroline, on the other hand, spotted a bell in the gift shop. Now I'm up to eleven!

We visited Utah Beach, then headed down the road toward Sainte-Mère Eglise for lunch. By the time we got there poor Annika had tears in her eyes, she had to pee so badly. We made a beeline to the Office de Tourisme and they directed us to some toilets which didn't have working lights. So we left all the doors open so we could have some daylight by which to do what needed to be done. All's well that ends well.

We found a little restaurant for lunch, "La Libération" which appeared to have fare for all of us, and went in. I decided on a tartine savoyarde. A fondue savoyarde is a cheese fondue so I figured I was safe, but asked just to make sure only to discover that there was meat on it as well as cheese. The pizza on the menu also had meat ... my choices were narrowing, and, to my great annoyance, the waiter kept trying to speak English with me in what I perceived to be a condescending manner (maybe my hunger was clouding my judgement, however). I had really wanted something hot, but ended up getting a salad which was decent but unexciting and, of course, cold. Annika shared some of her fries with me, though. In the meantime Caroline dropped her fork on the floor and when I asked the waiter for another one (in French), he said he didn't understand me. N'importe quoi! Even Caroline (who corrects anyone and everyone with a bad accent) couldn't understand what his problem was. A few minutes later she tried to ask him for another napkin and he basically ignored her. Finally I told Annika to go steal some napkins from another table. Later, the waiter forgot Larry's cheese, and we had to order our coffee twice. I also distinctly heard him tell the French people at the table behind us what the choices were for the childrens' desserts (tarte au chocolat, pudding, ou glace), but when he got to us he gave us only one choice. To top it off, on the way out I saw a sign with about three hot vegetarian choices on it, which he had conveniently neglected to mention when I was trying to order something meatless. Experiences like this, coupled with the fact that the woman at the Utah Beach museum wouldn't let us use the bathrooms, make me understand why Americans sometimes dislike the French. Fortunately, this was an isolated experience, nobody starved to death, and the coffee at the end of the meal was good. Il faut positiver!

After lunch we went to Omaha Beach, the American Cemetery, and Arromanches. At the American Cemetery we walked down to the Jardin des Disparus, which we hadn't visited with the Fournier clan. Around the garden was a wall with the names of people whose bodies had never been found. It was a bit eerie to hear the girls, Maddie and Annika especially, reading off some of the names and the states. There was a guy named Alan Hall from New Hampshire, quite unsettling since I had a colleague by that name at Yarmouth.

When we got home we hand washed the clothes that got thrown up on (the washing machine is on the blink again) and packed for Paris. (Caroline is staying home with Larry and Annika and I will share a room with Maddie and Leah.) At dinner we opened a bottle of Monsieur's cider, which Leah liked very much. Tonight it will be early to bed so we can catch our nine o'clock train.

It has been fun to watch Maddie discover France. She is effusive in her praise of things she likes, particularly the beautiful landscape, the parks, and Larry's cooking. She is not, however, enamoured of French cheese. The other day she was waxing ecstatic about the French bread and butter, and noted that she "wouldn't want to waste such good bread on that awful cheese". Not exactly my perspective, mais ... chacun son goût! It was cute.

I won't be blogging again till Saturday at least, since I will be in Paris. A bientôt, alors!